Download PDF Water Music: Adventures of a journeyman surfer By Dave Rearwin
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Ebook About By the author of Surf BetterNOTE: There is a newer edition of this book: Adventures of a Journeyman SurferIf you chase waves over a span of 70 years, you're going to have some adventures. And you're bound to have some insights, even though some of them take years to ripen. I've had my share of adventures, which I've recorded in this book. The insights are there, too. And a little bit of surfing history. This book is really two stories in one. The obvious story includes some wild and crazy stuff. The underlying story is a little deeper: What did all this mean, and how does it carry forward when life isn't quite so wild and crazy anymore? So: come for the action, stick around for the ending. They're both interesting. What was it like to go on a surf safari deep into Mexico sixty years ago? How does it feel to be held down and mauled by a huge, powerful wave? Could a surfer really ride a flash flood twenty-five miles through the Mexican desert in the middle of a hurricane? Can you imagine the thrill of having time literally stand still while you're racing beneath the lip of a big wave in the dim glow of pre-dawn? Want to take a surrealistic trip on an overloaded bus stuffed with hyperkinetic surfers that makes the antics of Ken Kesey and his Merry Pranksters look like a Cub Scout picnic? How about being at the mercy of cartoonishly inept medical caregivers when the only thing between you and permanent disability is luck and your own sense of humor? How does it feel to make a comeback to surfing at age sixty-two after years out of the water? Get set for surfing, travel and adventure in a time machine with adventures spanning seven decades on four continents and Hawai'i. At the same time, go along on a voyage of personal discovery. The author started surfing in 1951 at the age of ten. At eighty he's still at it – with a new orientation – and finding new magic in stand up paddle surfing.Book Water Music: Adventures of a journeyman surfer Review :
While I have read other surf anthologies, this also is an interesting parallel of life and aging and acceptance of same; along with beautiful descriptions of sea life & surroundings and the natural beauty therein.There are also a lot of social and cultural insights of the 50's, 60's and 70's that can make one nostalgic for simpler times and mores. What a fun and interesting life this guy had ! This book is about so much more than surfing. It’s about living. Not what you do for a living but what you do to live. Its about the adventures and rewards of being present and having a passion for life. For Dave this passion revolves around water and the stories that result from pursuing his passion are amazing. He’s a great example of how anyone can have an amazing life if they choose to show up and follow their purpose not someone else’s. A thoroughly enjoyable and enlightening read. Read Online Water Music: Adventures of a journeyman surfer Download Water Music: Adventures of a journeyman surfer Water Music: Adventures of a journeyman surfer PDF Water Music: Adventures of a journeyman surfer Mobi Free Reading Water Music: Adventures of a journeyman surfer Download Free Pdf Water Music: Adventures of a journeyman surfer PDF Online Water Music: Adventures of a journeyman surfer Mobi Online Water Music: Adventures of a journeyman surfer Reading Online Water Music: Adventures of a journeyman surfer Read Online Dave Rearwin Download Dave Rearwin Dave Rearwin PDF Dave Rearwin Mobi Free Reading Dave Rearwin Download Free Pdf Dave Rearwin PDF Online Dave Rearwin Mobi Online Dave Rearwin Reading Online Dave RearwinBest Taming Riki, Volume I, Part 3 By Kira Takenouchi
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